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Out of Africa, Part 2
April 8th, 2010
by Erika Hueneke
I spent the better part of March exploring the remarkable country of Tanzania, Africa, and last week I blogged about the parks we visited and the wildlife we encountered. But I would be remiss to not devote an entire entry to the lodges and camps we stayed in, as these one-of-a-kind properties sent an already mind-blowing trip right over the top.
Bilila Lodge Kempinski
We spent the first two nights at this brand-new, 77-room lodge in the heart of Serengeti National Park. Despite being situated smack-dab in the bush, this brick-and-mortar hotel lacks nothing in the way of creature comforts, from two restaurants and a full-service Anantara Spa to double soaking tubs overlooking the partial woodlands.
On our first night, as we were nursing Bilila Bellinis on the terrace, the lodge manager breathlessly came to urge us to come quick -- a troupe of baboons had made their nightly climb up a rocky outcropping on the property. We quickly went to check out the situation, and sure enough, there they were -- a couple dozen little monkeys enjoying the sunset just like us!
Kempinski also manages hotels in Dar Es Salaam (Tanzania's financial capital and the main point of entry into the country) and the tropical island of Zanzibar, so you can make a full circuit without ever having to rough it.

Top: the lodge's infinity pool and watering hole.
Middle: a king bed and bathrobes for two.
Bottom: the view of the plains from my balcony.
Olakira Camp
This completely mobile camp spends December through March in the southern Serengeti, then moves up to the central Serengeti from June to November without leaving a trace. Nevertheless, my spacious tent (one of only eight) had a working shower -- I just had to radio my butler via Walkie Talkie to let him know I was ready for him to fill the tank with solar-heated water -- and a flush toilet. The tidy dining and lounge tents were decorated in vintage safari style.
As I was preparing for bed on our first night here, I was pretty adrenaline spiked, as I could hear hyenas calling to each other not far from my tent. And when I slid my feet under the covers, I bumped into something warm -- which made me jolt back in surprise! Happily, it was only a bladder of warm water the staff had placed under the blankets at turndown to ward off the evening chill.
Asilia Lodges & Camps manages Olakira, along with five other camps throughout the Serengeti region. Asilia's travel representatives can arrange full safari packages, including guides.

Top: my abode, complete with a king-size bed.
Middle: tents in the heart of the bush; my rustic bathroom vanity.
Bottom: the view from inside my canvas.
Ngorongoro Crater Lodge
This property's unbeatable location on the lip of the Ngorongoro Crater is its claim to fame, and the 30 lavish suites, which reminded me of something like a luxury hobbit village, take full advantage of the stunning views: You can see the caldera from the bed, the bathtub -- even the toilet!
The service here is truly standout; we were greeted with cool, scented towels and refreshing drinks when we pulled up, and when it was time to depart for our next destination, the staff lined up to bid us a warm farewell, promising, “Karibu tena!” -- you are welcome again. I even arrived back to my suite after dinner the first night to find a toasty fire burning.
&Beyond Africa owns and operates this lodge and dozens of others in locations across Africa, including South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Kenya and Tanzania.

Top: three of the lodge's Maasai-inspired suites; one of the opulent dining rooms.
Middle: my sumptuous bed and cozy wood-burning fireplace.
Bottom: the view from the loo; a warm bubble bath waiting for me on arrival.
Mwagusi Safari Camp
This permanent tented camp is one of only five lodges inside Ruaha National Park. Its 13 bandas (meaning “temporary structures” in Swahili) line the Mwagusi River, frequented by wildlife. Dining takes place communally inside the main open-air lodge -- except for when the staff sets up an extravagant breakfast for two in the bush or a romantic, lantern-lit dinner on the riverbank.
I have to admit, I didn't sleep that well on my first night here, reason being -- as I was lying in bed, I heard lions and elephants roaring and trumpeting at one another in some sort of confrontation! With bragging rights like these, I wasn't too grumpy about the lack of shut-eye.

Top: my first view of the camp.
Middle: my banda; leaf-wrapped TP.
Bottom: the main lodge and dining area; sitting area in my banda overlooking the river.
Making Your Safari Happen
For crazy safari stories of your own, contact Denver, Colorado-based Africa Adventure Consultants to plan an unforgettable honeymoon. South African Airways flies direct from JFK to Johannesburg, South Africa, with continued same-day service to Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania. (If you can swing for business class, it's totally worth it -- the seats go ALL the way down for much-needed naptime!) To travel around Tanzania, Coastal Aviation's fleet of 12-passenger planes gets you where you want to go while also supplying unforgettable bird's-eye views.
Next week: Unraveling the mysteries of Zanzibar.
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